Authors: Ekin Ülgen, Gökce Soycan
ABSTRACT
The aim of this research is to analyze the "Rejans Restaurant" or now "1924 Istanbul. It was opened in Beyoğlu-Asmalımescit, Istanbul by the Russians who are seeking better opportunities and who are trying to be a part of a city that feels like home. The Bolshevik Revolution, Russian immigrants and the Republican Period in Istanbul are the main topics to be discussed in the article. The changes that Rejans Istanbul has undergone until today and the evaluation of the place will be examined under these topics. The reasons why Russian immigrants chose Istanbul as their new homes, their social and economic status will be explained with references to Istanbul during the revolution period. Also, references will be given to the pre-revolutionary Russian community. Finally, the cultural interaction between Russia and Turkey in the time of Bolshevik Revolution and the effect of this interaction on architecture will be discussed.
KEYWORDS: White Russians, Immigrants, Bolshevik Revolution, Cultural Interaction, Rejans, Architecture, Istanbul
INTRODUCTION
1. 1920: BOLSHEVIK REVOLUTION AND RUSSIANS
Russian Revolution of 1917, the revolution that overthrew the imperial government and placed the Bolsheviks in power. Increasing governmental corruption, the reactionary policies of Tsar Nicholas II, and catastrophic Russian losses in World War I contributed to widespread dissatisfaction and economic hardship.[1] The empire, which was on the verge of collapse, was shaken by the activities of the organizations working for the revolution inside and outside. The Russian-Japanese War and the subsequent World War I brought the end of the Russian Tsardom. As a result of peasant revolts and workers' strikes, the Bolsheviks came to power when they least expected it. As a result of the Bolsheviks coming to power, a socialist state was established, a first in world history. The Bolshevik Revolution led to the establishment of the largest and first communist state in the world. At the same time, it became one of the most important events of the 20th century that most affected world history by allowing the communist system to spread all over the world.
2. THE RUSSIAN COMMUNITY BEFORE THE REVOLUTION
When the First World War began, there was political instability and chaos in Russia. Troubles increased during the war, it was not possible for the Entente Powers to pass the Straits in the Dardanelles campaign, and the problems experienced as a result of Russia's inability to get help from the Allies grew. When the food shortage of the people was added to these negativities, public demonstrations began in Petrograd on March 8, 1917. In the end, Russians couldn’t stay longer in their countries and started to immigrate to other countries, and one of those “other countries” was Istanbul, Turkey.
3. THE BEGINNING OF THE CHANGE: THE ARRIVAL OF THE WHITE RUSSIANS IN ISTANBUL
The Armistice period[2], 1918-1922, when the Ottoman state was dragged into a political stalemate, was a time of transformation especially for Istanbul. Under the occupation of the Allied Powers, Istanbul hosted a large number of immigrants in this period, apart from population mobility. The supporters of the Tsar, "White Russians", who escaped from the 1917 Bolshevik regime in Russia and took refuge in Istanbul, created a three-stage transit migration wave in the city.[3] Although this period was actually too fleeting for immigrants to have a deep impact on society, the influence of the White Russians on Turkish culture has kept a very vivid place in the social memory until today.
The main reason why the White Russians took refuge in the Ottoman lands is that Istanbul is the closest and largest center to be reached. At the same time, there have been strict rules restricting the influx of refugees in alternative countries.[4] The Entente powers in Istanbul played a considerable and active role in reaching the White Russians to the Ottoman lands. Aside from these, the fact that the Ottoman Empire hosted people from many races and nationalities ensured that people's aspects were optimistic and moderate.
The Russians, who started to make their presence felt in the society from 1918, continued until the end of the 1940s, but their influence gradually decreased after 1930. The reason for this is that they used Istanbul, which is not considered as a permanent accommodation, as a bridge. Those who stayed in Istanbul were people who made successful investments or got married there.[5] Rich refugees spent their money carelessly, causing the price of every product and the markets to collapse. These refugees almost caused a small crisis in the marketplace.[6] Istanbul, which is traditionally already cosmopolitan and multicultural with its current structure, has also hosted many people from different cultures who came to the city during the war and armistice years. While these crowds caused an increase in the population and accordingly its needs, on the other hand, it created an intense population mobility in the city. The dense population of the city has brought many different problems to be tackled, such as housing, infectious and epidemic diseases, famine, expensiveness, black market, corruption, theft, gambling, and prostitution.[7]
The White Russians, who have found a place for themselves in many other professions such as blacksmithing, tailoring, cookery, restaurant and nightclub management, left important traces in Istanbul's entertainment life, fashion and lifestyle. Although most of the restaurants and patisseries opened by emigrants have been closed, Rejans restaurant still carries the traces of the period.
4. REJANS ISTANBUL
Rejans is located between the Olivo Pass and Panaia Pass, formed on both sides of the Panaia Church in Beyoğlu. It was opened by 3 friends Vera Protoppova, Mihail Mihailovic and Tevfik Manars, two White Russians and a Crimean Turk. The opening date was shown as May 4, 1932. However, due to the handover of the restaurant in 1924 it was renamed as Turkuaz, so some sources also include the year 1924 as Rejans’s establishment date.[8]
4.1 REJANS FROM PAST TO PRESENT
At the beginning of 1920, a beer house and restaurant was opened under the name of “Triamon Palace” where the current Rejans restaurant is located.[9] Shortly after this restaurant opened, it was taken over by Mihail Mihailovic, but he could not find the necessary funds. In the mid-1922, French Berthet bought this place and named it “La Regence”.[10] The name "Regence'' was first used for this French restaurant in Pera. Towards the end of 1923, due to the prohibition of alcohol, Berthet handed over the tavern to Mikhailovich. Mihailovic opened the current "Rejans'' in 1924, first with the name "Turquoise". Later, in partnership with Tevfik Manars and Vera Protoppova, he redecorated his place and named it "Rejans Coffee, Restaurant and Flower Garden ''.[11]
The main purpose of the establishment of the restaurant is to fulfill the lack of Russian cuisine in the Beyoğlu region, which was affected by the White Russian movement. As Jak Deleon stated in one of his articles:
Rejans: It is said that Atatürk often visited this restaurant,
where the former "Grand Duke", who saved his life (but not
his property) from the Bolshevik regime and threw the skin
off to Turkey, had a white collar, a clean shirt, and ironed
trousers, the "chief waiter[12]
The restaurant gained a reputation in a short time as it is centrally located in Beyoğlu, a predominantly White Russian region. Many well-known figures of the period such as writer Agatha Christie, spy Mata Hari, actress Greta Garbo, King of Spain Alfonso IV, and diplomats of the Second World War years have hosted.[13] But maybe one of the most special guests was the founder of Turkish Republic, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. He wasn’t just a guest but also one of the regular customers of the restaurant. Table number 2 in the left corner of the restaurant was Atatürk's classical table which is still preserved and displayed as "Forever reserved”.(AD1) It is said that roasted chickpeas in a crystal bowl and raki, Atatürk's favorite drink, are always present on table number 2.[14] Besides so many good memories and guests, there were also difficult days of the restaurant. In spite of the financial gains in the 1930s and the most spectacular periods, the restaurant had a difficult time with the Wealth Tax that was enacted in 1942. The Wealth Tax was a tax mostly levied on non-Muslim citizens in Turkey in 1942, with the stated aim of raising funds for the country's defense in case of an eventual entry into World War II. The underlying reason for the tax was to inflict financial ruin on the minority non-Muslim citizens of the country, end their prominence in the country's economy and transfer the assets of non-Muslims to the Muslim bourgeoisie. It was a discriminatory measure which taxed non-Muslims up to ten times more heavily and resulted in a significant amount of wealth and property being transferred to Muslims.[15]This triple partnership was reduced to two when Vera Protoppova went abroad. Over time, Tevfik Manars sold his share to Abdurrahman Şirin, who was also a Russian immigrant. When Abdurrahman Şirin died, his share was left to his sister, and upon his death, his son Selim Taygan. When Mihail Mikhailovich died in 1971, his heirs became partners.[16] In 1976, a fire broke out in the restaurant. It was closed for a while. During this period, the heirs of Mikhail Mikhailovich sold their shares. When the restaurant reopened in 1977 after a 9-month repair period, its partners were now Selim Taygan and Nüvit Sezener.
Despite the fire and the many difficulties it faced before, Rejans, which has not closed its doors for a day since 1932, was closed in 2011 due to a rent dispute with the owner.[17] After five years, Rejans was put back into service with a new name, 1924 Istanbul, given by its new owners.
4.2 ARCHITECTURE OF REJANS
Rejans restaurant was opened in 2016 after being renovated. Deep research was carried out in the past for the place, and all the original building elements both inside and outside were preserved and repaired.(AD-2) The wooden sections were preserved and the old air was tried not to be lost. All the furniture and lighting elements selected for the restaurant took their places in the place with the reproduction of the original pieces bearing Russian traces. The ceiling of the room was lightened by getting rid of the plasterboard closures added in the later periods. It was aimed to bring the traces of the past to the present by revealing the wooden and brick parts on the Volta ceiling. The elevations at the entrance were arranged to provide a wide landing and a flat footed entrance to the main hall. The stairs were saved from their old narrow appearance and a spacious and ostentatious entrance was obtained.(AD-3). Classic wooden laths were made on the main walls and the space was tried to be animated by adding large Russian type mirrors with beveled wooden frames between them. Thanks to the inclined placement of these mirrors, the effect is strengthened by the original tiles (fork, knife, candlestick, plate) reflections on the tiles and the table.(AD-4). The space was enlarged by removing the partitions on the mezzanine floor that opens to a high garden. A bar has been placed on the mezzanine level to continue the showdown below. Due to the lowness of the ceiling of the mezzanine, a sconce-style lighting that saves the head level was designed. In the main hall, chandeliers with 2 large ostentatious crystal glasses were hung. On the walls, the same texture was spread throughout the space with sconces inspired by the large chandelier.[18](AD-5)
CONCLUSION
The White Russians, who had to immigrate from their country due to the Bolshevik Revolution, started to immigrate to Turkey in the early 1920s as a community that included officials in various fields of art.[19] The Russians broke away from their country, and most of them came and settled in Istanbul. The main reason why the White Russians took refuge in the Ottoman lands was that Istanbul was the closest and largest center to be reached. In addition, the fact that the Turks welcomed the Russians in a friendly and hospitable manner that they did not see in their own country made them permanent here.
Rejans is located between the Olivo Pass and Panaia Pass, formed on both sides of the Panaia Church in Beyoğlu. It was opened by 3 friends Vera Protoppova, Mihail Mihailovic and Tevfik Manars, two White Russians and a Crimean Turk. The main purpose of the establishment of the restaurant is to fulfill the lack of Russian cuisine in the Beyoğlu region, which was affected by the White Russian movement. The restaurant gained a reputation in a short time and hosted many well-known figures of the period such as writer Agatha Christie, spy Mata Hari, actress Greta Garbo, King of Spain Alfonso IV, and Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. It is so valuable that the restaurant still preserves Atatürk’s classical table number 2 and displays it as “Forever reserved” with his favorite food and drink on it.
Rejans Restaurant, which suffered economic damage with the Wealth Tax enacted in 1942 and the events of September 6-7 in 1955, did not operate for a period of nine months due to the fire in the restaurant in 1976. Rejans Restaurant, purchased by 360 Group, owned by Sasha Khan and Mike Norman, was restored in 1924 Istanbul, with its new name, in a way that preserves its historical identity. Its interior design is identical to its old design, and its menu is designed to preserve the famous Russian cuisine.[20]
A restaurant that has changed hands more than once and its structure was damaged, Rejans, now known as 1924 Istanbul, hosted many important names and reflected the Russian culture in a way that is memorable. Despite the changes and damage it has suffered, Rejans very successfully reflected the vision and view of the Russians who had to run away from their country. Reconciling its own culture with Turkish culture and bringing a new breath to Istanbul's social and nightlife, Rejans Istanbul is much more than a restaurant.
Further Reading
Ar, Bilge. “İşgal İstanbul’unun Kentsel Dönüşümünü Beyaz Ruslar Üzerinden Okumak”.Annual of Istanbul Studies 1. 2019: 101-122.
Armutçu, Emel. “70 Yıldır Borç Kaşıklanıp Sarı Votka Tokuşturuluyor”. Hürriyet Pazar, October 21,2001.
Bakar, Bülent. “Chapter 5”, Esir Şehrin Misafirleri: Beyaz Ruslar. Prep.,Nilgün Azakoğlu. İstanbul: Tarihçi Kitabevi Yayınları, 2. pr., 2012.
Erem, Onur. “Ekim Devrimi Türkiye'yi nasıl etkiledi?”. BBC News, November 8, 2017.
Deleon, Jac. “Rejans: Savaş Öncesi İstanbul’unu Anlatan Bir Romantik Işıldak”. Hürriyet Pazar. http://openaccess.marmara.edu.tr/bitstream/handle/11424/164197/001502921006.pdf?sequence=2
Değimli, Cem, Oğulcan Uludağ, Serhat Sergikaya, Dilara Şaş and Gizem Çolak. Bolşevik Devrimi’nin Türkiye’ye hediyesi: Beyaz Ruslar ve Rejans Lokantası. Ankara: Bilkent University, 2019.
Üsdiken, Behzat. Pera'dan Beyoğlu'na: 1840-1955. İstanbul:Akbank Kültür ve sanat yayınları, 1999.
Kodaman, Bayram. “Bolşevik İhtilali ve Türkiye”. SDÜ Fen Edebiyat Fakültesi SDU Faculty of Arts and Sciences Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi. 25(2012): 65-68.
70 Yıllık Rejans’ın 35 Yıllık Tanığı- Hayat Haberleri. Radikal. 19 January 2004. Access: 02 April 2022.
1924 İstanbul. “Hakkımızda”. Access: 12 March 2022.
Aydın, Seda Nur. “Beyoğlu’nun gözbebeği: Rejans”. Access: 15 March 2022. https://www.gzt.com/arkitekt/beyoglunun-gozbebegi-rejans-3596839
Çakan, Murat. “Rejans 1924”. Access: 2 April 2022. https://www.behance.net/gallery/40899205/Rejans-1924
Koç, Yunus and Mikail Cengiz, eds. 100. YILINDA SOVYET İHTİLALİ VE TÜRK DÜNYASI. Ankara: Hacettepe Üniversitesi Türkiyat Araştırmaları Enstitüsü, 2018.
Kardüz, Ali Rıza. “Rejans (Regence)”. Milliyet Pazar, April 15, 2001. https://www.milliyet.com.tr/pazar/rejans-regence-5285671
Smart Beyoğlu- Rejans Lokantası. 8 March 2019.
ADDITIONS
ADDITION-1
Table 2, "forever reserved" for Mustafa Kemal Atatürk
ADDITION-2
Rejans interior & exterior until 2011.
ADDITION-3
The entrance and stairs
ADDITION-4
ADDITION-5
[1] The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. “Russian Revolution of 1917 Summary.” Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., https://www.britannica.com/summary/Russian-Revolution.
[2] The Armistice period: The interim period in Turkish history, which is about the occupation described with the Turkish War of Independence, is called the armistice period.
[3] Samancı, Özge, Helene Sauner Leroy. Mütareke Döneminde İstanbul’da Beyaz Ruslar ve Yemek Kültürüne Olan Etkileri, edited by Yunus Koç, Mikail Cengiz. Ankara: Hacettepe University, 2018, p.410.
[4] ibid
[5] Cem Değimli, O. Uludağ, Sergikaya, D. Şaş, G. Çolak,“Bolşevik Devriminin Türkiye’ye hediyesi:
Beyaz Ruslar ve Rejans Lokantası”, 2019, s.5. (access 2.03.2022)
[6] Bülent Bakar, “Chapter 5”, Esir Şehrin Misafirleri: Beyaz Ruslar, prep.,Nilgün Azakoğlu, İstanbul: Tarihçi Kitabevi Yayınları, 2. pr., 2012, p.199.
[7] Samancı, Özge, Helene Sauner Leroy. Mütareke Döneminde İstanbul’da Beyaz Ruslar ve Yemek Kültürüne Olan Etkileri, p.411.
[8] Celal Başlangıç, “70 yıllık Rejans'ın 35 yıllık tanığı”, Radikal, s.2., 19 January 2009.
[9] Esma Armuçu, “70 yıldır borç kaşıklanıp sarı votka tokuşturuluyor”, Hürriyet, s.12., 21 October 2001.
[10] Ali Rıza Kardüz, “Rejans (Regence)”, Milliyet, 15 April 2001.
[11] ibid
[12] Jak Deleon, “Rejans”, Hürriyet Pazar, s.22., 21 October 2001.
[13] ibid
[14] Cem Değimli, O. Uludağ, Sergikaya, D. Şaş, G. Çolak,“Bolşevik Devriminin Türkiye’ye hediyesi:
Beyaz Ruslar ve Rejans Lokantası”, 2019, s.5. (access 2.03.2022)
[15] Wikimedia Foundation. (2022, March 27). Varlık Vergisi. Wikipedia. Retrieved April 17, 2022, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varl%C4%B1k_Vergisi#:~:text=The%20 Varl%C4%B1k%20 Vergisi%20(Turkish%3A%20%5B,entry%20into%20World%20War%20II.
[16]Cem Değimli, O. Uludağ, Sergikaya, D. Şaş, G. Çolak,“Bolşevik Devriminin Türkiye’ye hediyesi:
Beyaz Ruslar ve Rejans Lokantası”, 2019, s.5. (access 2.03.2022)
[17] Seda Nur Aydın, “Beyoğlu’nun gözbebeği: Rejans”, Access: 2 April 2022.
https://www.gzt.com/arkitekt/beyoglunun-gozbebegi-rejans-3596839
[18] Murat Çakan, “Rejans 1924”, Access: 2 April 2022.
https://www.behance.net/gallery/40899205/Rejans-1924
[19] Cem Değimli, O. Uludağ, Sergikaya, D. Şaş, G. Çolak,“Bolşevik Devriminin Türkiye’ye hediyesi:
Beyaz Ruslar ve Rejans Lokantası”, 2019, s.5. (access 2.03.2022)
[20] ibid
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